Driving, Dining & Dodging Tractors: How to Conquer Ostuni (and Beyond) Without Losing Your Mind or Your Wing Mirror

Ah, Ostuni. The White City. A gleaming hilltop town that looks like someone took Santorini, added a shot of espresso, and plopped it in the middle of olive groves and wine country. You're here — bravo! But now what?

Let’s assume you’ve hired a car.

And why wouldn’t you? It’s the Italian dream: sunroof open, Eros Ramazzotti on the radio, zooming past centuries-old olive trees. Just remember:

• The roads are charmingly rustic

• Locals drive like they’re trying to qualify for Formula 1.

• And Google Maps? Let’s just say she tries her best. You will end up in a street the size of a shoe box, probably in reverse, being watched silently by three old men and a cat. It's fine. Smile. Nod. Back up.

Train travel: your unexpected hero

Let’s say you’d prefer a day off from the driving Olympics — Enter: Trenitalia. The station is just outside Ostuni (a taxi or a brave downhill walk away). Trains are frequent-ish, reliable-ish, and surprisingly cheap. Best of all? No parking dramas. Just you, a window seat, and views of golden fields and little towns with names you’ll butcher lovingly.

Hop the train to:

• Polignano a Mare – For those Instagram shots you must pretend are candid.

• Lecce – Florence’s southern, sun-kissed cousin with fewer crowds and better coffee.

• Monopoli – No board games, just beachside perfection and aperitivi.

Local towns worth getting lost in (intentionally) & “Day Trips & Hidden Gems”: A scenic itinerary through trulli, coastal delights, and archaeological wonders....

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By car, you’re spoiled for options: Itria Valley Loop — A scenic drive connecting Alberobello, Locorotondo, Monopoli; Cisternino – Cute, compact, and smells like grilled meat at all hours. Why? charming and known for its fornelli (meat cooked in front of you); Grotta di Santa Maria di Agnano — An archaeological and natural wonder just outside Ostuni, known for ancient Paleolithic burials including the famed “Woman of Ostuni”; Ostuni Cathedral & Views — Visit the stunning 15th-century Duomo and enjoy panoramic views with a drink at Borgo Antico Bistrot—or stop at the Gelateria Borgo Antico for an aperitivo with a view; Polignano a Mare - Why not plan your trip to this picturesque location if you decide to hear here by car.

🏖 Secret Beaches That Won’t Be on the Cruise Ship Route

You're in Puglia, so yes — you want the sea but away from the crowds? During the summer it may not always be possible but try these instead:

• Torre Guaceto Nature Reserve – 30 minutes from Ostuni, this protected coastal gem offers wild dunes, shallow turquoise waters, and not a sun lounger in sight. (Pack water and snacks — there are no bars. This is nature)

• Spiaggia di Punta Penna Grossa – A bit deeper inside the Torre Guaceto area, it’s great for families, snorkellers, or those who just want to float and pretend to be in a shampoo commercial.

• Costa Merlata – A series of little rocky coves with crystal-clear water and just enough space to feel like you've claimed a secret. Locals come here. Tourists often don’t.

• Look for Torre Pozzella or Lido Morelli — more natural, less crowded than the big-name beaches.

🍽 Where to Eat Ravioli That Might Make You Cry a Little

Forget soggy tourist menus. Here’s where you’ll find ravioli worth writing home about:

• Masseria Il Frantoio (near Ostuni) – A slow-food temple where the ravioli is homemade, possibly by angels, and stuffed with seasonal magic. The setting? An olive grove. Naturally. We can organise some olive oil tasting here.

• Osteria del Tempo Perso (Ostuni) – A local favourite built into the stone of the old town. The ravioli with burrata and tomato sauce might just break your heart in the best way.

• Trattoria Le Zie (Lecce, if you're heading that way) – Run by real aunties (zie), this is nonna-style food at its finest. Order whatever pasta is stuffed and smothered — and leave room for dessert.

• If you are not into ravioli, Try orecchiette con le cime di rapa, grilled meats, fresh seafood, and local wines like Negroamaro or Primitivo. And never say no to a scoop of gelato!

Shop Like a Local

• La Mercanteria — A standout for traditional Apulian pottery and ceramics, offering beautifully crafted souvenirs with authentic local flair Bon Traveler.

• Antichità La Puglia — Located along Via Cattedrale, this shop is packed with genuine antiques and vintage finds from the Puglia region—think ceramics, old tools, furniture, religious icons, and quirky collectibles you won’t see in typical souvenir shops. Browsing here is a bit like stepping into a time capsule—narrow aisles, shelves stacked with curiosities, and the scent of old wood and history in the air.

• Penny Lane Vintage — Just a short walk from Piazza della Libertà. The shop is known for its carefully chosen collection of vintage clothing, accessories, and home décor—think 60s and 70s Italian fashion, funky jewellery, and unique statement pieces.

• Weekly Markets —

  • Saturday: Local clothes & food market in Ostuni. Held every Saturday morning just outside the historical centre, this is the biggest market in town. You’ll find fresh fruits and vegetables, local cheeses, cured meats, clothing, shoes, household goods, and the occasional vintage stall. It’s bustling and authentic—perfect for people-watching and picking up picnic supplies. (also in Ceglie Messapica)

  • Second Sunday of the Month: Antique & flea market in Ostuni in Piazza Libertà. This market features antiques, vintage items, old books, and collectibles. It’s a treasure trove for anyone who loves a good rummage.

  • Cisternino Weekly Market: Just a short drive from Ostuni, Cisternino’s market (Mondays) is another great spot for local produce, street food, and everyday Italian life.

  • Martina Franca Weekly Market: On Wednesdays, this nearby town hosts one of the largest markets in the Valle d’Itria, with everything from food to fashion.

  • Alberobello Market: Famous for its trulli houses, Alberobello’s Thursday market is worth a visit if you’re exploring the area.

If you are self catering, here are some supermarkets in the general area of if you need your own private cook just let us know!

Supermercato Famila: One of the largest supermarkets in Ostuni, located on Via Pola. Great for a wide selection of groceries, fresh produce, and household items. Eurospin: A popular discount supermarket chain with a location on Via Degli Emigranti. Good for budget-friendly basics and Italian staples. Conad City: Centrally located on Via Giosuè Pinto, this is a convenient spot for fresh bread, deli items, and everyday groceries. Dok Supermercato: Found on Via Giovanni XXIII, this local chain is known for its fresh produce and friendly service. MD Discount: Another budget-friendly option, located just outside the town center, offering a range of Italian and international products. Coop: While not directly in Ostuni, you’ll find Coop supermarkets in nearby towns like Ceglie Messapica and Carovigno—both a short drive away.

Most supermarkets in the area are open Monday to Saturday, with limited hours on Sundays. They’re perfect for picking up local cheeses, olive oil, wine, and snacks for your adventures.

Gluten-Free Eats (& Treats!) OSTUNI

• Sax Restaurant — Romantic courtyard setting, excellent gluten‑free menu, knowledgeable staff, open into the evening Atly.

• Il Gatto Rosso — Cosy spot near the main square with great gluten‑free pizza and attentive service Atly.

• Il Posto Affianco — Mediterranean shareable dishes, warm stone‑wall ambiance, panoramic rooftop views—gluten‑free friendly Atly.

• Osteria Ostuni Bistrot — In Piazza della Libertà, family-run atmosphere, clearly marked GF options, great piazza views Atly.

• Creperia_SERCREP — Lovely crepes and dessert options, safe GF preparation, very caring service Atly.

• Taverna della Gelosia — Garden terraces, romantic vibe, good GF choices, welcoming staff Atly.

• Ristorante La Reggia — Atmospheric dining in historic cave setting, enchanted atmosphere, excellent GF menu Atly.

• Cremeria La Scala — Gelato spot with AIC‑certified GF cones—delicious and safe for those with gluten sensitivity Atly.

• La Vecchia Terrazza — A charming viewpoint for meals with GF options, including gluten‑free pasta, ideal for a relaxed, scenic dinner

🧐 What Nobody Tells You About the Countryside Between Towns

Let’s be honest: Puglia is not Tuscany — and thank goodness for that. Yes, there are olive trees older than most civilizations and sun-baked stone walls snaking through fields. But don’t be surprised if a lot of the landscape between towns is, well… a little flat and a little beige. Occasionally it feels like driving through a spaghetti western with fewer horses and more Fiat Pandas.

• It’s not dramatic. It’s not Alpine. It’s just quietly agricultural.

• You’ll see more tractors than Vespas.

• And sometimes the only sign of life is a lone rooster standing in the middle of the road like he's guarding state secrets.

But here’s the thing — it’s peaceful, and it makes the towns feel even more special. You drive through 20 minutes of rural silence and then — BAM! — you’re in Martina Franca, all Baroque bling and aperitivo trays. It’s like opening a surprise present every time.

So if you’re wondering:

• "Are we lost?"

• "Is this it?"

• "Should we have gone to Lake Como?"

Just wait. You're probably 5 minutes from some incredible piazza where someone’s making the best espresso of your life.

👟 Practical Things No One Tells You Until You're Sweating Through Linen

• Ostuni is hilly. Like, calf-toning, hamstring-stretching hilly. Don’t fight it. Wear comfortable shoes and reward every incline with gelato.

• Siesta is real. Between 1pm and 4pm, towns go eerily quiet. It’s not a zombie apocalypse. Just lunchtime followed by a nap — the Italian way.

• Shops may open “around” a certain time. If a sign says 5:00pm, expect doors to creak open somewhere between 5:07 and 5:43. Enjoy the suspense.

• Bring cash. Cards are accepted almost everywhere except the charming little bakery where you just found the best focaccia of your life.

  
  

🌅 Golden Hour is Your New Best Friend

Want photos that look like you hired a professional photographer? Step outside an hour before sunset. Ostuni turns to gold, the sea glows in the distance, and every whitewashed wall looks like it belongs in a perfume ad.

Final thoughts (now with even more local wisdom):

Ostuni and its surrounds aren’t flashy. They don’t scream at you like Rome or seduce you like Venice. They whisper. Slowly. In dialect. While feeding you. Drive gently. Eat generously. Walk the towns like they’re mazes built just for you. And remember — even when the landscape seems flat, the flavour is anything but.

Need help planning your Puglian escape? I know the shortcuts, the secret beaches, and where Nonna hides the good ravioli. Just ask — I’m here for the pasta and the planning.