What to Do in Scilla, Calabria: Beaches, Chianalea, Food & Things to See

If you are looking for somewhere in Calabria that still feels authentically Italian, Scilla should definitely be on your list.

Perched on the Tyrrhenian coast of Calabria, Scilla is one of those places where life seems to revolve around the sea. Colourful houses tumble towards the water, fishing boats bob in the harbour and, in the historic fishing quarter of Chianalea, houses appear to rise directly from the sea.

It is beautiful, atmospheric and, importantly, it still feels like a place where people actually live rather than simply a holiday resort.

So, if you are planning a visit, here are some of my suggestions for what to do in Scilla and the surrounding area.

What To Do In Scilla, Calabria

Start by simply getting lost in the old town.

Scilla is a town best explored on foot, wandering through its narrow streets, discovering little corners and enjoying the views as you make your way towards the sea.

The town has a wonderful mixture of traditional Calabrian architecture, small shops, cafés and restaurants, and you will soon understand why Scilla has become one of Calabria's most popular coastal destinations.

And don't be in too much of a hurry.

One of the pleasures of Scilla is simply sitting down with a coffee or an aperitivo and watching everyday life unfold around you.

Spend Some Time on Marina Grande Beach

Fancy some beach time?

Then head to Marina Grande, Scilla's main beach.

The setting is rather special, with the beach backed by the town and the dramatic coastline surrounding you.

The water is beautifully clear and, during the warmer months, this is the perfect place to slow down for a few hours.

If you are visiting Scilla during the summer, however, don't expect to have the beach entirely to yourself. Scilla is popular with Italian holidaymakers, particularly in July and August.

If you prefer a quieter atmosphere, consider visiting outside the peak summer period.

See Scilla from the Water

Being in Scilla means being beside one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in Calabria, so why not experience it from the water?

Kayak rental is available, giving you the opportunity to explore the coastline from a completely different perspective.

Paddling along the coast allows you to appreciate just how dramatically the houses and cliffs meet the sea.

And, of course, there is something rather wonderful about being out on the Tyrrhenian Sea with Scilla behind you.

Visit Castello Ruffo

One of the most recognisable sights in Scilla is Castello Ruffo, dramatically positioned above the town.

The castle has an extraordinary location, sitting on a rocky promontory overlooking the sea and the Strait of Messina.

Even if you are not particularly interested in castles, the views alone make the climb worthwhile.

From here you get one of those panoramic views that remind you exactly why Calabria's coastline is so special.

Another Great View: Belvedere di Piazza San Rocco

For another perspective, take a walk to the Belvedere di Piazza San Rocco.

It is a wonderful place to stop, particularly towards the end of the day when the light begins to change. Take your camera — although, as always, photographs never quite capture the feeling of actually standing there.

Don't Miss Chianalea di Scilla

If there is one part of Scilla that you absolutely shouldn't miss, it is Chianalea.

Known as the "Venice of the South", Chianalea is one of the most picturesque parts of Scilla and has been included among “I Borghi più belli d'Italia”, Italy's association of beautiful historic villages.

And it is easy to understand why.

Here, the traditional houses are built almost directly against the water, with tiny streets and passages running between them.

Fishing has always been central to life in Chianalea, and you can still see the connection with the sea today. This is the part of Scilla where I would suggest putting the camera away for a while and simply wandering. It is incredibly photogenic, but it is also somewhere to experience rather than just photograph.

Explore More of Calabria

Scilla makes a wonderful base for exploring more of southern Calabria.

If you have a car and a few extra days, there are plenty of places worth discovering beyond the coast.

Reggio Calabria

A visit to Reggio Calabria is well worth considering.

The city sits directly opposite Sicily, across the Strait of Messina, and is home to one of Italy's most important archaeological museums.

The National Archaeological Museum of Reggio Calabria is particularly famous for housing the extraordinary Riace Bronzes, two ancient Greek bronze warrior statues discovered in the sea off the coast of Calabria in 1972.

The museum itself dates back to the late nineteenth century and is one of the highlights of any visit to the city.

You can also visit the Cathedral of Reggio Calabria and enjoy a walk along the city's famous waterfront, the Lungomare Falcomatà.

Gerace

If you have time for a day trip inland, make your way towards Gerace.

Perched on a hill overlooking the surrounding countryside, Gerace is one of Calabria's most beautiful historic towns.

Its spectacular cathedral is one of the largest and most important Norman buildings in Calabria, and the town itself is full of narrow medieval streets, churches and historic buildings.

It is very different from Scilla, but that is precisely why it makes such a good addition to your itinerary.

Bivongi and the Surrounding Area

The wider area is also home to some fascinating historic and cultural sites.

Bivongi, for example, is known for its Byzantine heritage and the Catholic Church of San Giovanni Theristis, while the surrounding area contains historic villages, churches and archaeological remains.

If you have a particular interest in history and architecture, it is worth allowing some time to explore beyond the coast.

Historic Villas

The area around Calabria also contains some wonderful historic residences.

Among those worth discovering are Villa Caristo in Stignano, an eighteenth-century residence, and Villa di Palazzi in Casignana, which is particularly interesting for its remarkably preserved Roman floor mosaics.

Another fascinating site is the Villa del Naniglio in Gioiosa Ionica, an important archaeological complex that gives an insight into the region's ancient past.

These are the sorts of places that are easy to overlook when planning a trip to Calabria — and often end up being some of the most memorable.

Visit Aspromonte National Park

If you enjoy nature and walking, make time for Aspromonte National Park.

The park covers a spectacular mountainous area in the southern part of Calabria, with forests, valleys, waterfalls and dramatic landscapes.

It provides a completely different experience from the coastline around Scilla.

One minute you can be swimming in the Tyrrhenian Sea; the next you can be surrounded by mountains and woodland.

This contrast is one of the things I love about Calabria.

What to Eat in Scilla

Of course, you cannot visit Calabria without talking about food!

Calabrian cuisine is famous for being full of flavour, and if you enjoy a little heat, you are definitely in the right part of Italy.

Sardella

If you see sardella on a menu, give it a try.

Often served as an antipasto or spread, sardella is a traditional Calabrian preparation made with small fish and chilli.

It is definitely not to everyone's taste, but when in Calabria, why not be adventurous?

Chilli — Lots of Chilli!

Calabrians love their chillies.

You will find them fresh, dried, crushed and incorporated into all sorts of dishes.

If you like spicy food, you are going to be very happy here.

And if you don't... well, perhaps ask before adding anything to your plate!

'Nduja

Then there is the famous 'nduja.

This soft, spreadable spicy sausage is one of Calabria's best-known foods and is made from pork and plenty of chilli.

You will find it used in pasta sauces, on pizzas, spread onto bread and incorporated into countless other dishes.

If you have never tried it before, Scilla is a very good place to start.

Pesce Spada — Swordfish

And then, of course, there is pesce spada — swordfish.

Scilla has a long fishing tradition, particularly when it comes to swordfish, and you will see it appearing on restaurant menus throughout the town.

If you are sitting beside the sea enjoying freshly prepared swordfish, you really couldn't ask for a more appropriate Calabrian meal.

Where to Eat in Scilla

If you are looking for somewhere special to eat, one restaurant worth considering is Ristorante Il Casato, in Chianalea.

What makes it particularly appealing during the summer months is its position right on the water.

The restaurant has an outdoor area built over the sea, so you can enjoy dinner while looking out across the water.

And honestly, this is exactly the sort of dining experience I look for when travelling around Italy.

The food is important, of course, but so is the setting.

A table overlooking the sea, fresh local fish, a glass of wine and the sound of the water below you...

That is Calabria.

Ristorante Il CasatoVia Annunziata 25Chianalea di Scilla

So, Is Scilla Worth Visiting?

Absolutely.

Scilla is somewhere I would recommend to anyone wanting to discover a different side of Italy.

It has the sea, beaches, history, beautiful villages, wonderful food and some truly spectacular scenery.

But perhaps more importantly, it has character.

It doesn't feel like somewhere that was created for tourists. It feels like a real Calabrian town that happens to be exceptionally beautiful.

Spend a few hours on the beach, wander through Chianalea, climb up to Castello Ruffo, eat swordfish by the sea and take your time.

And if you have longer, use Scilla as a base for discovering Reggio Calabria, Gerace, Aspromonte and some of the fascinating historic sites scattered throughout the surrounding countryside.

Because Calabria is one of those parts of Italy where the further you explore, the more you discover.

Totally Addicted To Italy tip: If you can, don't visit Scilla as a quick stop on a busy itinerary. Stay for a couple of nights. Scilla is at its most magical when the day-trippers have gone, the evening lights come on and the town settles into its evening rhythm.

That is when you really get to experience it.